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A List of Citrus Trees for Southern California Gardens

 A starter list of citrus trees for the Southwest garden

Citrus trees are favorites in the Southern California garden, and deservedly so. These trees can grow from dwarfs of only a few feet high to lofty shade trees. They have smooth, glossy leaves and remain evergreen year round. Flowers are relatively small and white, often blushed pink, but they perfume the air with a heady sweet scent. Citrus trees can be decorative in the landscape design. Some dwarfs are happy in large pots – particularly handy where space is at a premium or in higher, inland elevations where these plants need to be moved to areas that are protected from frosty temperatures.  Since there are hundreds of citrus varieties, here is a list of some of the most popular or interesting varieties that do well in Southern California. Plants that come in both standard and dwarf forms have a (D) after the name.

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Grapefruit

  • Oro Blanco (D)
  • Red Rio (D)
  • Star Ruby (D)
  •    Dwarf
  • Cocktail Hybrid

 

Lemon

  • Eureka (D)
  • Improved Meyer (D)
  • Pink Lemonade (D)
  •    Dwarf
  • Pomona Sweet

 

Mandarin/Tangerine

  • Algerian (D)
  • Dancy (D)
  • Gold Nugget  (D)
  • Murcott
  • Satsuma (D)
  • Tango
  •    Dwarf
  • Honey
  • Pixie

 
Lime

  • Bearss Seedless (D)
  • Mexican (D)
  • Mexican Thornless (D)
  •    Dwarf
  • Kaffir Lime
  • Sweet Lime
  • Australian Finger

 

Orange

  • Cara Cara (D)
  • Fukomoto navel
  • Moro Blood (D)
  • Robertson Navel
  • Valenica (D)
  • Valencia ‘Midnight’
  • Washington (D)
  •    Dwarf
  • Sanguinelli
  • Tarocco
  •  

Minneola-Tangelo (D)

 

Kumquat

  • Nagami (D)
  •    Dwarf
  • Meiwa

 

Other dwarfs

  • Calamondin
  • Fingered Citron
  • Pummelo
  • Taveres Limequat

There are plenty more citrus tree cultivars and varieties in addition to the ones listed here. These are some of the more interesting, flavorful, available or easy to grow in the Southern California area. As you can see, there are a lot of dwarf citrus trees available so you can find at least one or two spaces to grow them. Choose the best kind for your local soil and climate.

Plant views: The Asparagus Pea (Tetragonolobus)

The asparagus pea is a decorative and unusual vegetable you don’t often see. For some reason very few people seem to be growing it in their edible gardens.  Why is a mystery to me. The asparagus pea is also called the winged pea because the seed pods sport wing-like ridges that run the length of the roughly two to three-inch long edible pods on four sides. The Latin name, Tetragonolobus purpurea, refers to these four-lobed seed pods and the deep scarlet, pea-type flowers produced by the plant.

Asparagus peas rarely reach more than 10 inches tall and can spread two feet wide. Thought to originally have been native to northern Africa and naturalized all over the Mediterranean region, they like plenty of sun and thrive remarkably well under hot, dry sun or warm humid conditions. They also accept soils less rich than most vegetables.

One of the most decorative vegetables with its brilliant colored little flowers, the asparagus pea shows off well in flower gardens as well as decorating vegetable gardens. Crop the pods as they develop. Serve them steamed, boiled, fried, stir-fried and used in just about any recipe that calls for beans or peas. They have a faint asparagus flavor. Mature peas have been used as a coffee substitute and the cheerful, red flowers are edible, too.

Since asparagus peas aren’t all that well known, you are not likely to find them as started plants. But you can buy seeds. They germinate easily. They do best with a long growth season. In low or no frost areas they can be planted in the autumn and will grow very slowly over the winter. They can also be planted in the early spring. Being in the legume (pea) family, their roots will help enrich your soil with nitrogen. Crop them while they are small – less than two inches – while they are tender. Pods that grow too large and tough can still offer seeds to be used like any other dried pea or bean.

Decorative, tasty and nutritious, the asparagus pea is a fun addition to the edible garden and deserves to be grown more often. You will also find these unusual vegetables referred to as ‘winged peas’ or listed as Lotus tetragonolobus.

Build a living wall and do vertical gardening

Vertical gardening is also referred to as planting living walls. Building up instead of out is turning into one of the more popular concepts in the world of gardening today. Creating a garden that climbs up the wall of a building or a solid fence, or constructing vertical panels covered with decorative plants offers opportunities to garden where gardens never went before. This landscaping technique is catching on to literally liven up dead surfaces, to increase insulation and to create lovely gardens in spaces ordinarily too small to sustain a typical flat garden. It’s a great way to turn a dull wall into something eye-caching, to absorb heat on a sunny vertical surface or to make the most of a limited vegetable garden space.

The living wall is an ecological way use otherwise wasted surfaces while adding natural temperature controls for heating and cooling structures. But vertical gardening is also very decorative. This kind of garden actually is built UP a wall with the surface designed to be planted. Water naturally drains downward with gravity. As a result there is little waste of water.

Vertical gardens are built from scratch or from kits. Or you can build your own or have yours designed or constructed for you. There are many ways to design these living walls. They can be built up supported by strong fencing (these structures are very heavy) attach to block, structural or retaining walls, or be created on independent panels used either indoors or outdoors. Usually they are formed of steps or tiered pockets that will form footings for the plants to grow. When grown up the wall of a building or other structure, it is important that there should be an efficient waterproof lining between the planting area and the supporting structure to keep water from seeping into walls. The living wall functions like a thick, insulating wall. There are construction and insulation similarities between the building of a green roof and the building of a vertical garden.

A few years ago these systems were new and hard to find. Now there are many modular kits on the market that you can assemble yourself. These are being sold in garden centers, big box stores and on the Internet, so you can choose you style and price range.  


Walls can be planted with exotic plants in protected areas, cascading colorful trailing flowers, lush green foliage, drought tolerant plants, or even vegetables and fruits. Imagine the decorative effect you can get from planting a living wall or think about picking a dangling strawberry, snapping off a few tasty beans or popping a cherry tomato into your mouth as you pass by your vertical garden. Or in our hot sun, you can now plant a sunny wall with a decorative wall hanging of sun-tolerant plants like succulents.

There are also fiber-constructed ‘pocket’ gardens that can be hung like a living tapestry. The watering system is made of tubing that waters each of the drainable fabric-like pocket that holds soil and a growing plant.

The concept of vertical gardening is not new and has been used for centuries by simply growing vines over a fence or trellising climbers up walls. Steep hillsides have been held in place by cast cement blocks or natural stone with the gaps planted so roots keep soil from leaking out while adding a decorative effect.

The difference of the new systems available now is that they tend to be modular and can be stacked or hung on a ninety-degree surface with root footings built in all the way up. This way many small plants can be planted close together, designs can be patterned into the flat surface, and even edibles like small-growing vegetables and fruits can be grown on the upright surface

If you have a small space that would benefit by being able to grow your garden upward, or if you want a beautiful, ecological wall for natural insulation, or if you just like the decorative idea of growing your own vertical garden or living wall, check into building a vertical garden or living wall.

Designing areas that have no water available

Working with tough areas of the garden

Art in the garden and the garden as art

Richie Steffen, expert on integrating art in the landscape offered a lecture at the recent Pacific Horticulture Symposium in Pasadena, California that reminded all of us just how the garden can contain art or become a piece of art itself. In the desperate pursuit of fame and fortune encouraged by our consumer society so many of the finer aspects of our culture and life are falling by the wayside. The arts and those aspects of human creativity that are being displaced by the need for material acquisition are leaving people with a growing need for something more than physical comforts to nourish the heart and soul. You can create your own home retreat to lift your spirits and put back the missing creativity in your life by making your garden a place of art. Whether you add art to your garden with murals, statues, décor, ornamental surfaces or make your garden into art with creative structures or design with plants.  Steve encourages us all to look at the garden as not only a place to entertain or to use for practical applications like pets, growing edibles and play, but as a place to have fun, add healing, therapy and joy to daily life. Enjoying art in the garden and the garden as art can make your landscape into a very important part of your life.

Design a DIY Landscape

The most common mistake in gardening is failing to plan out a garden first. Even if you just scribble out your ideas on paper, you will be doing yourself an enormous favor. The more detailed and accurate your plan, the more money, frustration and regrets you will save yourself. You can call in an expert designer for the more complicated plans or even to coach you with your own design. Or you can design a DIY landscape plan for yourself.

The reason you want to start on paper is so you can see how things will flow together. Designing on paper gives you a chance to test out different ideas. It is much easier to change things with a delete key on the computer or a pencil eraser – and cheaper than having to make changes with heavy labor and expensive materials in the garden itself.

Start out by making a list of all the things you want in your DIY garden. Think of how you will be using your space: for exercise, pets, entertainment, growing edibles, relaxing etc. Then add appropriate items to your list like patios, swimming pools, lawns, pens, barbecues, raised vegetable gardens, water features, seating areas, driveways and patios and so on.

Sketch out how all these areas will work along with each other to form a useful yet decorative flow. Use walkways and paths to link events together. Remember safety and design areas like swimming pools and child play areas where they can be observed from the house. Place edible gardens like herb gardens and vegetables where they will be convenient to the kitchen. Designing wisely can then be made artistic and picturesque.

As you lay out a DIY plan place the permanent features – the hardscape – first. Also make sure you sketch out the important systems like drainage, irrigation and utility lines like electric and gas. Make sure you make provisions for future expansion – utility lines that can be capped but will be available for future use.

Once your overall design, hardscape and systems are in place, you can then start designing the living part of your design or the softscape. Start with the largest features; the trees. Plant the right kind of tree in the right location so it will fit properly when mature, the roots will not interrupt any of your hardscape as the tree grows. Consider the sun at different times of the year and plan shade from your tree so it enhances your garden. Then move on to specking out the different kinds of plants you will use. Always plan for the mature size. (You can always fill in with smaller plants and annuals while the newly-planted are too small to fill their space.)

The final part of you plan can involve adding final details like décor, supplementary plant lists, edging materials and other practical and decorative elements. Do plenty of research. The more you know about design and the elements you include, the better your design will be. Like any do-it-yourself project the success of your project is directly proportional to the wisdom with which it is pot together. And one of the wisest things you can do in a DIY landscape design is a plan.

Basic gardening terms and definitions: Perennials

Anything perennial is something that happens over and over on a regular basis. Perennial plants are those that take a rest period every year, then continue to grow when conditions are amenable. A perennial plant should be chosen carefully and planted into the landscape with its mature size in mind. Some perennials stay small whereas others, like trees, grow to take up considerable space. Perennials bloom and set seed, but always save some energy to keep them alive through rest periods. Bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes are perennials just like shrubs and trees. Plan the living foundation of your garden with perennials, starting with the largest (like trees) and working down to the smallest (groundcovers and miniatures). While you wait for your perennial to grow, you can fill in vacant spaces with annuals or biennials.  Often perennials will grow better with mild feeding as they can deplete soils where they live over a period of time.

Quick tips on growing unusual root crops

Root crops are vegetables that have adapted their roots into a swollen form that are good for eating fresh or cooking. We are familiar with carrots, beets and radishes as common root vegetables. But there are many more interesting root vegetables that are easy to grow in most home gardens.

Salsify is known as the oyster plant and has white, carrot-like roots with a slightly oyster-like flavor. These plants grow much like carrots with similar needs. Give them good soil with eight to ten inches clearance below for roots to stretch unhindered. They like heat and will grow well even where summers are hot.

Celeriac is a big, rough-looking globe of a root crop that is related to celery and carries a distinct celery flavor. It needs no special treatment and can grow up to six inches in diameter. Like most root crops, it is more tender if it isn’t allowed to grow too big. It is tasty in soups and stews and can be stored in a cool dry place for use long after it is dug at the end of the summer.

Parsnips have been grown for centuries and have a slightly sweet flavor to their roots. Another crop that isn’t fussy and can even tolerate a light frost, grow parsnips for adding to stews or cooking up as a side dish. Like other root crops, the parsnip is happy in a rich soil with regular water and plenty of sunshine.

Landscape Design: Getting Creative with Space

Garden design is a science with a lot of different techniques to make your landscape into something that not only grows well, but functions practically and looks great. But there are many tricks to the trade. One element that can help any space accommodate a more scenic garden is to use space – to sculpt what exists and use illusion where it doesn’t. There are many ways to make your garden appear much more than it is. You can build illusion into your landscape to punch up the assets or to disguise any short-comings on your property. Here are some tips on how to build illusion into your landscape.

 

 

* Small trees will give the illusion of distance. To make a garden look larger, plant small trees in the furthest spaces. You can build illusion into a landscape to make a small garden look larger by using perspective. For example, a large tree will make the general area look even smaller. A small tree in a short distance will read as a larger tree viewed more distantly
* Large trees will dwarf a garden unless the space is so small that the canopy has the effect of a roof and the trunk is like a wall in which case the tree won’t register much as a tree from a perspective view anyway. But it can create a natural outdoor room.
* You can create a rolling effect without having to move a lot of soil by planting gardens or areas of the ground cover plants that grow at different heights.
* Create ‘windows’ to look through to define special spaces or punch up a focal point. ‘Windows’ can be in the form of shrubbery or walls that have spaces to look through, actual windows hung from patio overhangs or cut in walls, or the spaces between objects or structures. Creating window views adds an illusion of complexity.
* Distract the eye from something you want to down-play by refocusing attention elsewhere. Creating a focal point will help move the attention to where you prefer someone to be looking.
* Disguise ugly features by growing vines over them or surrounding them with decorative panels.
* Paint objects a bright color, grab attention with showy décor or plant hot colored flowers in reds, yellows and oranges to make an area stand out. Conversely, blend in areas you want to down-play with dull colors or masking walls, vines or facades.
* Elongate short spaces by building a winding path that draws out the look of distance. This works especially well when landscaping hills and slopes.
* Break up long spaces by dividing them with fences, structures, patios, hedges or other items to partition off space and create rooms. You can create intrigue by inviting someone from one outdoor ‘room’ to the next with an archway or decorative gate.
* Disguise utility areas with decorative fencing or handsome planter areas that will hide eye-sores.
* Paint murals behind narrow garden areas on walls or fences to add the illusion of depth.
* Hide smaller pipes and utilities under fake rocks or grow shrubs around them to disguise them.

Other things you can do are to use the overall effect of your landscape area to play with illusion. For example, lighting can transform the whole feel of your property. Use lighting at night to pick out features that will make your garden glow. You can spotlight only the areas you want creating the illusion of a whole new and different garden from the daytime view. Or you can be more subtle by simply highlighting certain gardens, your front door, a seating area or a single focal point in the garden.

You can divide space up by light or by passageways. Create pathways that meander to break apart areas. If your space is shallow, make the path start wide and narrow as it continues to form an illusion that it is stretching much further away.

These are just some ways you can use illusion to change the shape and effect of your garden. With some tricks of space and color you can make any garden look better.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pondless Waterfalls

In the heat of the summer, there is nothing as refreshing as the sound of splashing water. In many places, however, water is at a premium and likely to be even more scarce in the future. So how can a water feature bring beauty and freshness into the garden in a responsible manner? Consider the pondless waterfall. are wonderful fun, but they are expensive to install and require a fair investment of time and money to maintain. All too often, ponds lose their appeal after the first couple of years and become eyesores of neglect, or worse, health hazards where they are abandoned. So if you don’t want a pond, or simply aren’t sure, try starting with a pondless waterfall. It’s water efficient and lower maintenance.

Okay, what IS a pond-less waterfall? The idea of a pond-less waterfall is to create something between a fountain and a pond. Structurally, it can take any form you’d like to imagine. The basic concept is that water is moved from a storage space, through a pipe and out into the air to splash back into the storage space and be recirculated again. This is the same basic concept in all water features. The difference here is that the ‘storage space’ is not a basin like you would find in a fountain, nor is it a larger body of open water like a pond. By covering the ‘storage receptacle, there is no open water visible (hence: “pond-LESS waterfall”). There are a number of advantages to building a water feature like this. First of all, you will not have to deal with mosquitoes laying their eggs in open water. You also do not have to buy or care for fish. Additionally, you do not have to use chemicals in the water to avoid build up of algae or pests. And depending on how you build this feature, you can create a water feature that is low on water usage and evaporation. You can still plant bog plants if you’d like to have a break from drought-tolerant gardening or you can design your waterfall for minimum maintenance and avoid any organic decor.

To build a pond-less waterfall, you only need to understand the basic concept. An underwater pump needs to be submersed in a container of water. The water will be pumped out an outlet pipe attached to the pump. You can guide that pipe however you wish. When the water spills out the other end of the pipe, it needs to go back into the container again. This is how any fountain or pond works. In a pond or fountain, the water splashes directly back into open water, often cascading down multiple tiers before returning for recycling. If you eliminate the surface of the water, you eliminate many of the maintenance issues discussed above. You can cover the surface with stones, gravel rock or many other materials so the water filters down below into the area where the pump is housed. The pump will need a special permeable house or box that allows the pump to remain submerged under returning water, yet keeps the stones or other material covering the surface of the container away from the pump. A cage with an easy access top – for servicing or changing out the pump – would work well.

Designs for pondless waterfalls are limited only by your imagination. You can create any structure you want to match your home or garden. If you fall in love with a piece of garden décor, such as a sculpture, you can incorporate that sculpture as if it were a part of a fountain. People, animals and objects can be used as a focal point with water splashing over rocks behind, cascading at the sculpture’s feet, or even becoming incorporated with the action of the sculpture if the positioning allows. The trick is to hide the pipe so it can’t be seen. The water can pour out wherever you direct the pipe opening. A common and tasteful version of a pondless waterfall can be seen in bubbling pots that spill their water into gravel covered receptacles. The fun of using these pots is that you can find all colors and styles of pots so you can easily find something to underscore your favorite look.

You can use unusual materials to create pondless waterfalls. Rock and bubbling pots may be popular, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get creative. Watering cans, hollow chunks of bamboo, anything that you can conduct a line of water through can spill water back into the receptacle. You probably would do better not to choose items with material that can rot or rust badly, but plastic, glass, stainless steel, PVC, and treated wood are all examples of materials that should work fine. You can use less resilient material to surround the water flow as well. That way you could use, say, a wagon wheel or a piece of furniture as a setting in which a more water-friendly material can conduct water though. You could use an old computer monitor housing for an unusual focal point, or send water around a dollhouse, or maybe run an electric train set over real waterfalls. You can go small or large, abstract or realistic. You can underscore a theme, like a lion’s head waterfall in a Tuscan garden or a fabricated cement tree with water flowing from all the branches for a fantasy garden. Not only can you create any type of water feature, but you can cover the receptacle with materials other than stone. Picture the fantasy tree splashing branches of water onto a bed of tumbled glass with the pump hidden safely beneath for a pondless waterfall. Or maybe you might want colored rocks for the Lion’s head. Consider using brightly colored small tiles spaced sufficiently for the water to run down between in a Mexican styled garden. You might even do away with the “fall” of the water fall and simply install a spray that blossoms from the material covering the tub beneath. In short, just about any effect can be created using a pondless waterfall. You might have an artist design something special for you or you might want to play around with your own creative skills. You can bring in a contractor for larger constructions or play with your own smaller versions. Whatever you want to design and build, you can create it with a pondless waterfall.


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